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I had originally planned to tow this boat out to the Bahamas and back. But after a bit of consideration I have decided that an inflatable tender would be easier to manage. Therefore, the Dory Yama awaits in storage for another purpose......

In the fall of 1995, Thomas and Rob took a boat building class and began building a wooden boat. They began in Rob's empty garage with a set of plans from a Maine boat designer. Through one surgery, two job changes, a sail down the Nile, a trek through Ethiopia, and becoming an uncle, they have been building this boat. Three years later, they installed the brass oarlocks and, finally, finished the boat! The boat is a nine foot dory skiff. A skiff is a small row boat. Our boat is loosely based on the design by DuckWood. (The "loosely" part wasn't intentional!).





Lofting

The first step in building the boats was the lofting. Lofting involved drawing various dimensions of the boat in actual size. To make the lofting easier, we made two large tables that were waist high and fasten together end-to-end. The high tables meant we did not have to crouch to draw. The lofting is an essential part of building the boat. Most measurements for the boat are taken from the lofting. We made sure we drew the lofting correctly. Usually, one of us would draw a portion of the lofting first, then the other would double check the work. It was built-in, redundant fault checking, so to speak. From the lofting we build the bottom of the boat (made of marine plywood), the stem (made of white oak), and the transom (made of Honduran mahogany). We also made the templates, which are used to shape the boat. These were fasten together and placed on a rig used to hold the boat in place as we worked on it.

Thomas examines the lofting. One of the "practice" stems is in the foreground. To save money, we would make the boat parts out of cheap pine first. If we didn't make a part properly at first, we could try again until we made it properly. Then we would make the actual part used in the boat out of hardwood. This save us lots of money.

 

 

Rob beveling the edge of the boat's bottom. Behind him are the templates fastened upside down on the bench. We were going to build the boat upside down at first but later decided to build rightside up.

 

 

 

 

The assembled stem, bottom, and transom. You can also see the platform used to hold the boat as it was built.






Planking

Planking involves more than just slapping a piece of wood on the side of the boat. Each plank must be cut to the proper shape. Since the sides of the boat are curved, each plank must have a curve in it as well.

At first we tried to use cedar for the planks. This wood was too brittle to handle the bends the planks had to make. We settled on using marine plywood for the planks. However, the sheets of marine plywood were not long enough to make a plank. We had to glue two strips of marine plywood together to make each plank. The planks overlap each other. This is called a lap strake. Where the planks overlap, we hand riveted brass fasteners to hold the planks together.

The first planks are in place. The long 2x4 on the top is used to hold the stem, templates, and transom in place. It is very important that these not move while the planks are being installed.

 

 

 

 

The second planks are being installed. The wooden clamps were used to hold the plank in place, while we installed the brass rivets.

 

 

 

 

 

All four planks on each side in place.






Frames & Ribs

The templates were only temporary structures. After the planks were installed, each template was replaced with a frame. The frames were cut to fit into place. Ribs were also installed to hold the shape of the boat. The ribs were placed along the sides of the boat between the frames. Unlike the frames, the ribs were bent into place. Installing the ribs was a race against time. To make the wood soft enough to bend, it was either steamed or boiled. Once it's taken out of the steamer (or boiler), we had only a few seconds to bend the rib into place. The ribs would quickly cool and harden. Once they hardened, we could not bend them further.

The fore frame is clamped in place and ready to be fastened down. The middle frame had
already been installed.

 

 





All the ribs and frames have been installed. Their tops will eventually be cut down so they are below the top edge of the boat.

 

 

 

 

 

Our boiler used to soften the ribs. At first we tried using a steamer, but it did not work well. The steamed ribs would not soften enough for us to bend.






Breast & Knees

The breasthook is placed in the bow of the boat and is used for support. It was built in three sections from white oak. It also has a medal dowel through the middle for strength. Thomas build the breasthook. While Thomas was working on the breasthook, Rob was at the other end of the boat building the knees. The knees are also used for support. They are attached on the corners made by the sides of the boat and the transom. These were made of Honduran mahogany to match the transom. The knees being held in place by clamps.

 

 









The breasthook being glued into place with marine epoxy.

 

 








The finished breasthook. The notches in the ends of
the breasthook will be used to hold the rail.






Rails

The rails were made of two thin strips of white oak placed on either side of the top edge of the boat. Since the strips were thin, they could be easily bent to fit the curve of the boat's edge. They were then fastened in place using brass rivets. The starboard rail clamped in place and waiting to be riveted.

 

 






The starboard rail installed. Notice the alternating up and down pattern of the rivets. This is done intentionally. It makes the connection of the rail to the boat stronger. It also looks cool.






Thwarts

Thwarts are a nautical way of saying seats. First, a thwart rail is installed. This is a thin strip of white oak extending from bow to stern. The bottom of the thwarts will rest on this rail. We placed one thwart in the center of the boat. The rower will sit in this seat, facing toward the stern. There is another larger, stern thwart, placed up against the transom. Red oak was used for the thwarts, to offer a slight contrast the the white oak of the rest of the boat. Installing the thwart rails. It was important that the rails be level.

 

 





Installing the middle thwart.
The stern thwart is seen in the
foreground, already installed.








Finishing Touches

After the thwarts were installed, only a few miscellaneous items needed to be completed. The cut water, a strip of wood along the bow of the boat, was installed. Supports for the oar locks were placed along the rails. The top of the transom was designed and cut. The skeg was also cut and bolted into place. The cut water in place at the bow of the boat. The cut water was made of white oak. Like the ribs, the cut water was boiled, so we could bend it into place. The boiling gives the cut water its dark color.

 

 

 

 

Cutting the top of the transom by use
of a jig for a smooth shape.






Sealing & Painting




We used fiberglass to seal the bottom edge of the boat. Then, a marine sealant was spread on the planks and bottom. These were then painted. The inside was painted white. The outside was painted green.
We decided to use a clear finish on most of the hardwood. We didn't want to cover up the natural beauty of these woods with paint.
The last work we did on the boat was to install the oarlocks. The bottom of the boat, after the fiberglass strips had been glued onto the edges and sanded. The bottom of the boat was also painted with marine epoxy. The epoxy acts as a sealant.

 

 








The transom, after being
covered with a clear finish.

 

 







The inside of the boat
after being painted.

 

 








 

Painting the outside deep green.

 

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